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Frankie Dunn Made Me Like Gnocchi. I Don’t Like Gnocchi.

todayTue 3 Nov 26

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Frankie Dunn Made Me Like Gnocchi. I Don't Like Gnocchi.

Frankie Dunn masterchef joins phil in the morning cheshire mix56
Frankie Dunn joins Phil in the Morning on MIX56

Phil Roberts on MIX56Phil

PHIL ROBERTS
THE MORNING SHOW

I need to make a confession before we go any further. I can’t stand gnocchi.

If I see a packet of it in the supermarket, I walk straight past. So when Frankie Dunn put a plate of it in front of me on Phil In The Morning, I kept my mouth shut and picked up a fork.

Reader, it was gorgeous!

Frankie pointed out that almost every dish she’s brought into the studio is one I’d normally avoid. I’ve now told her I hate scallops. So you know what’s coming at Christmas.

From MasterChef to sold-out supper clubs

To catch you up, Frankie made the final six on MasterChef. One of the challenges had her cooking for a hundred guests on the platform at the National Railway Museum in York, to mark 200 years of the railways. Not bad for someone who, until recently, got Googled and came up as an American baseball player.

These days she’s running pop-up dining events all over the place, and what struck me was how much she’s still learning. After every event she goes home and writes down what she’d do differently.

In Shropshire last week she cooked for 60 at a wine bar and bistro and hired their head chef for the night, just to pick up his tips on serving that many people. “Going into a kitchen and saying ‘I know everything’ is never going to work,” she told me. A bit of humility. I like that.

Her favourite, though, was a private dining room in Manchester. Twelve guests, just Frankie, yards from the table. Relaxed and informal, and she felt part of the night.

The “safe fail” tasting menu

Frankie’s not shy about putting unusual things on a menu. (We won’t mention the rabbit. Again.) Her secret is the small-plates tasting menu. If there are seven dishes and you’re unsure about one, it won’t put you off the whole night. You’d never order it as a main course, but on a tasting menu you’ll try it. She calls it a safe fail.

It works, too. Plenty of diners swore they didn’t like beetroot, then cleared their plates of her salt-baked beetroot carpaccio.

She took the same beetroot to Year 11 Catering and Hospitality students at Lymm High School, right at the top of her road. Eight or nine of the eleven had never tasted beetroot before.

Every single one of them tried it, and nearly all of them liked it. Try getting a room full of teenagers to do that.

She also gets her meat from Hopkinson’s, the butcher in Lymm village, who’ll get in pretty much anything you ask for. Squirrel was offered. Frankie drew the line there. So did I.

Frankie Dunn

Pumpkin gnocchi with sun-dried tomato sauce

Here's the dish that converted me. Frankie shaped the gnocchi like tiny pumpkins (her sister showed her a quick knife trick over FaceTime), but plain little dumplings taste just as good.
Course: Appetizer, Main Course
Cuisine: Mediterranean

Ingredients
  

  • 500 g Roasted butternut squash and pumpkin, mashed
  • 200/250 g Plain Flour (depending on how wet the squash is)
  • 1 Egg
  • Salt, butter and sage leaves
  • Tomatoes, peppers, carrot, celery, onion, garlic and any veg in the fridge that needs using up.

Method
 

For the Gnochi
  1. Roast the squash and pumpkin until soft, then blitz in a food processor with the flour, egg and a pinch of salt to make a soft dough. Different veg hold different amounts of water, so add flour bit by bit.
  2. Roll into ropes, cut into pieces and shape however you like.
  3. Boil in salted water. They're done when they float.
  4. Fry them in sage butter until golden. Keep the crispy sage leaves for the top.
For the "everything" tomato sauce
  1. Roast tomatoes, peppers, carrot, celery, onion, garlic and any veg in the fridge that needs using up. Soften it all in a pan with a splash of stock, blitz with a stick blender and season. Frankie stirs in a spoonful of cream cheese and some sun-dried tomatoes to make it richer. Kids will eat it and never guess how much veg is in there!
  2. To finish: Top with pea shoots and walnut pangrattato* (posh for crispy breadcrumbs): walnuts, breadcrumbs and a garlic clove, toasted in a pan until crisp.

Notes

 
*The full pangrattato recipe is on Frankie's Instagram

Eat it and enjoy it

Off-air, Frankie’s working on a health-focused cookbook. She’s not a nutritionist, but she’s a former science teacher who can sort good research from hype.

Her view is about variety and abundance, not cutting things out. No demonising foods. Which is probably why she’s firmly on Nigella’s side in the Bake Off row about the cameras zooming in whenever she eats. “Eat nice food and enjoy eating it,” Frankie said. “That’s what it’s for.”

Where to find Frankie next

  • Wednesday 11 November, Morgan Edwards, Knutsford. Five courses with wine pairings. (Sold Out)
  • December, a health club in Knutsford. (Members Only)
  • January, Chelford. (Sold out in under 24 hours)

Every one of her events has sold out so far, at a time when filling any venue is hard. She doesn’t take that for granted for a second.

Keep an eye on feastingwithfrankie.co.uk and Feasting with Frankie on Instagram and Facebook for new dates.

And if you saw an Oompa Loompa with a phone torch crossing a misty field near Oughtrington late on Halloween night, that was Frankie walking home with her kids. Apologies for any fright.

Frankie’s back next month with Christmas dips you can throw together from the cupboard. Better than supermarket party food, and possibly scallops.

Listen Again
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    Frankie Dunn with Phil in the Morning Phil Roberts

Written by: Phil Roberts